Originally Published September 9, 2014 | Updated March 13, 2022

Some places are just places. They’re dots on a map to which you can drive, fly or walk. Other places are experiences. Rich and vibrant, they are filled with the essence of souls who came before you. The old souls whose wisdom and skill – whose life – was responsible for the very walls which mark the spot.

The at the is such a place. Here, I can say with utter certainty the spirit of master carver Henry Nolla lives on. You can feel him. His essence is palpable. It’s tangible. It reverberates through the Carving Shed’s wooden walls and sawdust covered floor.

It’s embodied in the handshake of “Feather” George Yearsley – Henry’s mentee and the Inn’s current carver in residence. It’s seen in the tools Henry crafted and the carvings he created. Heck, it’s there in the stories told about his love for taking a dip in the buff.

When you visit the Carving Shed and see the care with which the wood is handled and the respect given to nature’s bounty, it’s difficult not to leave treading a little softer. It’s hard not to walk away breathing a little easier.

Walking up to the Carving Shed for the first time, I approached it like a heavy-footed Westerner – two stomping feet and a clicking camera. I came from the beach: the mussel shell covered, sand sprawling, wave breaking expanse of beauty. Up the small hill I came, squinting in the bright sunlight, even with my glasses.

There, just beyond the shade of the trees, sat George. His leather-tanned skin broke into a plethora of smile wrinkles as I approached. The man didn’t know me from Adam’s off ox, but there he was – with a huge smile on his face, asking me to join him as he soaked up the view.

I introduced myself and he introduced himself. Then he asked me to remove my glasses. He wanted to see my eyes. “That’s where you really get to know someone,” he explained.

It struck me as I left, how all too often we fail to make eye contact. Why does it take going to a place where wifi is non-existent and George’s cell phone is carved in yellow cedar for us to think about how we interact with one another?

And though the Carving Shed is about carving – about wood and how it can be manipulated into beautiful, functional items – it’s also about preserving a time when we talked to one another. It’s about holding onto a craft that celebrates community.

Are you ready to experience the magic at the end of the road?

George is there. He’s at the Carving Shed. Sometimes he’s inside, his hands working with the wood in one continuously smooth motion. Sometimes he’s outside, sitting by the sandy steps. And, sometimes he’s on the beach, throwing the ball for his dog. But he’s always ready to look you in the eye and introduce you to Henry through stories.

Book your ticket to the end of the road.

Imagine Cannon Beach before its coast was lined with a concrete jungle and you might be close to picturing Tofino. At least, you’d be close to picturing Tofino’s Chesterman beach. Unlike its grass-lined southern brother, Tofino’s shores are rimmed with old growth forests. Here, trunks grow out of dirt that rests next to sand.

Smack dab at the end of the road – literally, it’s the last stop on Canada’s transcontinental highway, the Pacific-Rim Highway – this quaint town has yet to be overrun by commercialized tourist attractions. Its landscape remains pristine. It’s locals, all 2,500 of them, embody the back-country, wave-as-you-pass friendly attitude you’d expect in a small town.

There isn’t a Starbucks. Nor is there a McDonalds, Jack in the Box or Pizza Hut. Heck, their strip mall, if you can call it that, is an eclectic collection of buildings. The taco stand is tucked next to the yoga studio. The chocolate shop is nestled behind the café. Across the gravel parking lot, a local artist shows off his wares beside a surf shop with the latest in wetsuits and boards.

On the westernmost point of Tofino’s Chesterman Beach, nestled among its trees and perched on its rocks, rests a series of buildings which appear to be more nature made than man-made. And, if we let ourselves be a little spiritual about the whole thing, they kind of are.

Elegance Steeped in Mother Nature

The is far more than a Relais & Châteaux resort. It’s rustic elegance steeped deeply in Mother Nature. It was conceived, designed and built with the forest and the coast in mind. Buildings were oriented to preserve trees. Prior to construction, the ground was cleared by hand to ensure no unnecessary vegetation was lost.

Sure, I could tell you about the heated bathroom floors and the double soaker tubs for two. I could tell you about the fireplaces and the turndown service that includes a selection of soothing, local music. I could tell you about the views, the shower and the hair products. (Ladies, they’re quite nice.) But, this is a Relais & Châteaux resort. One expects those things.

What you don’t expect is the complimentary rain gear hanging in each closet or the rain boots, provided in your size upon request. What you might not be prepared for is the wood fireplace mantle in your room, carved on site in the Inn’s Carving Shed. You might be surprised to learn the same hands that carefully shaped log after log into elegant posts and beams, were the same hands that carved the Inn’s front doors.

The hands belonged to Henry Nolla, the Inn’s original master carver who lived on site until he passed away. A quirky gentleman with a skill for transforming wood into art, Henry was known for taking dips in the buff.

Swimming in such a state is no small feat for a beach where the water’s temperatures are lucky to reach 60 degrees. Wetsuits are year-round attire for nearly every ocean-goer. And, ocean-goers there are aplenty. With its sandy bottom and nearly consistent source of waves, surfing is one of Tofino’s main highlights for visitors and locals alike.

While venturing out to the beach for a stroll or a dip, be sure to visit the Carving Shed. The energy inside is palpable. Henry’s spirit lives on in the continued work of his mentee, “Feather” George Yearsley and Christen Dokk Smith, the Inn’s carvers in residence.

The Pointe Restaurant

As tempted as you may be to enjoy room service after your beach stroll, you’d seriously be missing out if you didn’t visit . The view is breathtaking. With over 240 degrees of Pacific Ocean viewscapes, it can be hard to concentrate on the menu – a completely acceptable option for those who opt for the Tasting Menu.

However, should you find the will to tear your eyes from the waves, you’ll find a farm-fresh menu, rich with organic ingredients and bursting with unique flavor combinations. With a sea-to-table mentality, this is ocean-centered fare. The menu changes regularly. It might feature albacore tuna, lightly seared and sprinkled with honey water; local Tofino, heirloom beets and sweet cream; or halibut, pan roasted and accompanied by chanterelle, apricot and sweet onion ragout. Indeed – seafood is the star. However, for those who are more partial to meat and potatoes, The Pointe Restaurant doesn’t disappoint. Their tenderloin melts in your mouth and their crispy pork belly has just enough fat rendered from its cap to make for a smooth pork-forward bite. Though I’m certainly contradicting myself, I’d be remised not to tell you about the sweetbreads. If you see them on the menu – order them. I implore you. Sure, they’re not seafood. And, in normal life you may not want to mess around with them. But good golly – here they have a smooth texture and a rich umami flavor from their mushroom pairing.

Dessert at The Pointe Restaurant is a bit more difficult, as saving room is a challenge. However, with their insane lineup of tasty treats you might consider returning the next night for a sweet-filled affair. (No one will judge, but they may turn green with envy.) Among the favorites is a house made chocolate bar studded with raspberry and chocolate cake with hemlock ice cream.

Ancient Cedars Spa

Indulging in dessert is one thing, but at the , your body can discover a new level of relaxation and rejuvenation. It’s nestled into the ocean level of the Pointe building, creating a space that’s sheltered by the forest and adjacent to the wave-dashed rocks of the Pacific Ocean.

Offering a wide variety of treatments, one of the most unique is the Hishuk Ish Tsawalk Awakening Treatment. It incorporates elements of fire, water, earth and air. The treatment includes a full-body exfoliation using seaweed polish made from hand-harvested Vancouver Island seaweed. The polish, they say, invigorates your soul.

Wickaninnish Inn History

In 1955, Dr. Howard McDiarmid moved to Tofino. He planned to get his MD feet wet at the country hospital and then move back to the city to open his own practice. Little did he know he’d never leave.

Smitten with the location, he assumed responsibility for the Tofino General Hospital. In all the years he worked there, only one man who arrived failed to leave. A pretty impressive track record for a hospital which still only has 12 beds.

Back when Dr. McDiarmid arrived, Tofino was only accessible by sea and air. It wasn’t until 1959 that a logging road past Port Alberni opened a pathway to Nanaimo. The pothole-ridden dirt road may have been treacherous, but it was a path.

His vision was a motel. Wanting nothing to do with restaurants or food, he planned a well-kept, but not extravagant, location where he could welcome visitors. By the late 1960’s, Tofino’s beaches were a haven for pioneer surfers, conscientious objectors and wayward hippies. Dr. McDiarmid could see that this pristine slice of heaven would one day become a destination for those looking to relax and unwind. He wisely purchased land.

His son, Charles, had other ideas. Having spent 13 years in the hospitality industry working with Four Seasons Hotels and Resot, he saw the full potential for the Inn’s location on Chesterman Beach.

Today, the Wickaninnish Inn welcomes visitors from near and far. During the summer, guests stroll the beach, collecting shells, dodging waves and checking out starfish. Come winter, they cozy up by one of the Inn’s numerous fireplaces to watch the storms rage outside. In a true family effort, Charles, his brother Bruce and his dad worked together to create one of the finest destinations in the world.

This is for certain – no matter when you come, your heart will leave a little more full than when you arrived. This place just has that kind of magic.

Plan Your Visit via �鶹��Ƶ’s PC-12 Charter Flight Service

How one weekend on Vancouver Island can leave you rested, refreshed, and restored.

For our wedding anniversary, we returned to the place where it all began — Vancouver Island. Fourteen years ago, for our honeymoon we drove up to Vancouver B.C., spent the night, woke up the next day, and took the ferry to Nanaimo. Then we made the gorgeous drive to Tofino. In my naiveté, I had envisioned a honeymoon spent somewhere tropical. What I did not know back then was how restorative it would be to have a quiet place to return to years down the road. A place where we could reflect and feel gratitude for the life we have built together.

Flash forward a few years and �鶹��Ƶ has made traveling to Vancouver Island a breeze. A little over an hour flight from Seattle and you are quickly descending into a place like no other. A scenic drive through a serpentine, tree-lined highway which skirts along lakes and provincial parks sets the stage for the quiet oasis of Tofino.

Elegance by the Sea at the Wickaninnish Inn in Tofino

The Wickaninnish Inn provided the perfect backdrop for a tranquil, romantic, and remarkable time away. Upon checking in to the Wickaninnish Inn we instantly felt at home in its graciously laid out rooms. The breathtaking ocean views were merely the cherry on top to the most comfortable bed I have ever slept in.

Since we flew to Vancouver Island from Seattle we tried to keep our luggage to a minimum. Once at the we were overjoyed to see the hotel provided rain boots and rain suits for each guest. Eager to explore the area, we donned our rain boots and walked along the beach before our

In honor of World Ocean Day, we dined on an ocean-inspired tasting menu of everything from barnacles to scallops and a plethora of other sustainable fish. The dessert however, was the real show stopper with a medley of meringues and fruit purees mimicking an underwater seascape. This meal unquestionably set the stage for our time on Vancouver Island and all the area has to offer.

Archipelago Cruises’ Tofino Adventure

The next morning, we set out on Raincoast Maiden with I have wanted to visit the Broken Islands for years, so I was eager to see all the wildlife we would encounter. Our trip happened to coincide with eagle mating season so right off the bat we spotted eagle after eagle.

On our way out to the Broken Islands we happened upon some friendly harbor seals and a rocky outcropping of several dozen sea lions. When we left Ucluelet in the morning it was overcast with some low-hanging clouds but by midday it was sunny and blue skies. I appreciated the dramatic change in scenery as the sun broke through the clouds and the water’s color changed too many times to count.

Mid-way through our adventure we dropped anchor in a protected cove for lunch. As we feasted on salmon and chicken, we marveled at both the turquoise water and the sheer beauty of the region. Spending the day circumventing the Broken Islands with the fresh air and a constant sea breeze proved to be regenerative in the best possible way.

Dinner at 1909 Kitchen in Tofino

Once we returned from our boat trip, we made our way to 1909 Kitchen is the brainchild of Chef Paul Moran, the current Top Chef of Canada. 1909 Kitchen touts itself as an, “ingredient-driven menu sourced and foraged from Tofino’s oceans, shorelines, and forests.” With a backdrop of mountains and coastline, the stage was set for an unforgettable dining evening.

Rather than order from the menu we allowed Chef Moran to cook for us. Plate after plate made its way to our table where his ingenuity was second only to his flavors. At first bite, Chef Moran had this pregnant woman daydreaming of having him take up residence in our home as our personal chef. Avocado tacos, sea beans, stuffed morels, salmon collar, and halibut rounded out our culinary adventure while we hoped that one day he might open a similar restaurant a little closer to Seattle.

Kayak Tour with Vancouver Island’s Remote Passages

On day three, we traveled with As we paddled through the protected waters of Tofino’s harbor, we meandered our way past houseboats and islands toward our destination of Meares Island. Once on the island we took a forest walk and learned more about rainforest ecology and the local history.

If you want to really experience a place like Tofino, one of the best ways to do so is on the water. Snagging a boat ride is one of the only ways to reach the remote islands and inlets where this area truly shines.

Stunning Waterside Lodging at Long Beach Lodge

For our last evening, we settled into in one of their ocean view rooms. As we dined on fresh crab and risotto in the Great Room we were enveloped by a wall of fog. It was both otherworldly and a bit eerie to feel like you were smack dab in the heart of a cloud.

After our meal, the fog had lifted a bit so we walked along the beach and then meandered to one of the fire pits facing the ocean. Conversation around the flames inevitably revolved around how we did not want to return home, but stay just a few more days. It was incredible to be reminded just how special a place this is and how easy it can be to reach — with the right transportation.

Our last morning, we walked along the beach and watched the many surfers trying to catch waves and then made the drive back to Nanaimo for our early afternoon flight.

Surfing might not be the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Canada — which is perhaps why Tofino seems to be such a well-kept secret. That, and the fact that’s it’s located at the end of the road. Literally. But with its 35 kilometers of beaches and an exposed coast, it offers year-round surfing to surfers of all skill levels. Wet suits are typical and classes abound for those who need additional instruction. Because I was pregnant I decided not to pick up a new skill; though it was fascinating to watch as those young and old did.

If you are looking to abandon the day to day and spend your time amongst jaw-dropping scenery then a short flight to Nanaimo or a chartered flight to Tofino is a great place to start.

You can walk miles of sandy beach, try your hand at surfing, enjoy phenomenal culinary experiences and marvel in the natural beauty which surrounds you. And if you are looking for a place to go on your honeymoon or spend your anniversary forget the packed shores of Hawaii and look no further than Vancouver Island.

Book Your Nanaimo Flight

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